BUILDING TIPS BY MODELERS FOR MODELERS

We are beginning a new page of model building tips  --  send yours and will try to publish.


Some new and some old from the archives and from other FAC newletters



First one from our friend Claude Powell in West Virginia!

But also read below a message from Dave at 'Easybuilt'!
"Hi Guys,
            You saw the photo of the front end for my Vultee in the May-June 2007 issue of MAX-FAX.  This thrust adjustment technique is a winner for radial engine models and offers you an easy and simple way to address the trimming procedure.  Since the photo was taken I’ve retrofitted and retrimmed several of my models using this technique.  The models don’t fly any better but the trimming process was certainly easier.  The Geezers “Gizmo” also does this job very well and is still the most practical method for inline engine models.
            The hardware (cup point set screws and the blind nuts /T-nuts) are available from Micro Fasteners (http://www.microfasteners.com).  See attachment for sizes and prices.  Earth magnets are available from Easy Built models and Dave Rees.
            I’m using 4-40 screws but 6-32 screws also work for large models.  You can trim off the flanges from the blind nuts with tin snips if necessary.  Be sure to add enough cowl rings to hide the gap caused by the trim adjustments.  The 4-40 screws use a 0.050 allen wrench and the 6-32 screws use a 1/16” allen wrench.
            The blind nuts are located at the 2, 6 and 10 o’clock positions.  Drill holes for the blind nuts and install them first (hot stuff).  Put in the screws and leave them proud.  You can press the nose plug assembly against the screws to mark it for the magnet locations.  I use a drill bit (held in my fingers) to recess the magnets.  Brad point works best but any will do.  Hot stuff them in place.
            This trimming setup offers two excellent benefits.  (1) Easy and accurate trim adjustments and (2) the magnets hold the nose plug assembly snugly against the screws regardless of their settings.  In other words, even if the nose plug loosens (as it usually does) it will remain in place.
            You may be tempted not to install the 6 o’clock screw.  You really need it!  It serves three purposes:  (1) It’s available in the unlikely event you need up thrust (2) It ensures the security to hold the nose block in position.  (3) It provides a field spare in case you drop one of the others in the grass (you’d never find it)."
Claude Powell

Hi Guys,
 
Ed Bojanowski has put together a package for this exact setup about 2 years back and I think he still sells it.  He had a nice little screwdriver typ tool included for making the adjustments if there is any interest.  I found putting the magnets in the nose to hold the block on worked great.  I use 1/32" thick magnets to add shims and change the thrust angle.  This too is very easy.  Some pictures showing the magnets mounted in the wood, how the block fits on and covers everything and then how you can use them for shims.  Neat thing about the shims is you can remove them for judging and then pop them back in.  We have more details on mounting the magnets on our tips page at the website.
 
See you soon
Dave.

And check out Dave's web site for more building tips/links and his great model kits  --- http://www.easybuiltmodels.com/sitemap.htm

    
From the archives a neat tip from the 'mega' model builder John Hunton.

 



For our moderers with nerves of steel and very steady hands a color tissue covering tip by Pres Bruning found in a 'Cloudbusters' newsletter. Thus is not for the weak of heart but a look at Pres's models will attest to how well it will work  ---  no seams showing!





Two more from Claude Powell in West Virginia!

Subject: RUBBER LUBE

Hi Guys, Take this with a grain of salt!  For the just completed 2007 FAC non-nats I lubed all my motors with a silicone spray lubricant ( NOT PROTECTENT ) instead of DC33.  Only one rubber loop failed during the two day contest.  I examined the rubber for damage such as tears, nicks and abrasions of any kind.  I didn't find any.  Obviously the lube was doing it's job.  It would appear the rubber simply failed at it's weakest point.  I'll use this approach for the rest of the year to see if these good results continue.  The preparation consisted of washing the rubber in clear water and drying it before lubing it.  I put the rubber loops in a plastic baggy and sprayed the lube into it.  Remove the rubber loops, shake off the excess lube and let them air dry (it doesn't take long).  I don't think this is any better than DC33 but it does appear to be an acceptable alternative.  It's nice to have choices.  The silicone lube doesn't spray the inside of the fuselage, is easy to use, readily available and inexpensive.  I suspect all brands are about the
same but the one I've been using is called:
"3-in-1 Professional" silicone lubricant.  It's made for the WD-40 company and can be found on the WD-40 website.  I haven't seen any write-ups about this but I believe some of the modelers are using it and I think Dan Driscoll is doing some comparative testing.  Keep an eye on future Max-Fax issues.  Claude Powell



Subject: GLUE DISPENSERS

This tip isn't for everyone but it works well for me.
    For those of you who refill your printer ink with the "NU-COTE" brand of ink refillers instead of using manufacturer cartridges, pay attention.  The collapsible plastic ink bottles have a long, thin metal spout to refill the original printer cartridges.  When you have emptied them of ink you can wash them out in plain water.  The metal spout will pop out of the bottle and you can fill it with Elmers, Titebond, etc. and re-insert the spout.   It makes a great glue dispenser.  Claude Powell





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